此網頁設立於2016年12月24日    網頁設立者:王永健

                                                                                                        

                       強社班吳啓康學長2016年大陸行程記載

樹人首頁 Email: tv0808@haomail.com 2016樹人建樹人愛心計劃大陸遊
 

 

2016 樹人愛心之旅之一

飄揚在黃土高原上 

參加中國西北陝甘寧愛心之旅的樹人校友們一行六十餘人於201692日陸續經上海抵達西安。西安古名長安, 曾是從周,秦,到南北朝等12個朝代的京城,是中國歷史上最長久的故都,也是絲綢之路的起點,我國通向西方的最早城市。2016樹人愛心之旅也就從這裡開始。 

93日我們參觀了秦俑、即聯合國定為世界八大奇觀之一的兵馬俑。秦俑是秦始皇以黃泥窯烘煉成的陶土兵馬與戰車,造型尺寸栩栩如生,埋於地下以為護衛秦陵的、故亦稱陶俑。因為當時一直保密, 史書少有記載,所以無從考據。19747 月臨潼縣的楊姓農夫挖井時首次發現了陶俑,於是政府決定大事挖掘,兩年間出土了3 個坑穴。秦始皇兵馬俑博物館建立於兵馬俑原址之上,总建築面積45000平方公尺,35 年來展出修復文物約6000餘件,包括青銅器如馬車,兵器,和一些其他玉器。 

1號坑總面積13260平方公尺,呈現了排列整齊的兵士; 2號坑總面積6000平方公尺, 展現了佈陣的兵馬將士;3號坑總面積520平方公尺則是1 2 號坑的指揮部,40 年來出土文物共達5萬餘件。 

兵馬俑雕塑採用繪塑结合的方式,雖然年代久遠,但發掘出来的人物還依稀可見面部和衣服的色彩;手法傳神靈活,構圖巧妙,頗有真實性也富装飾性。正因為如此,秦兵馬俑在中國的雕塑史上占有重要的地位。從已整理出土的一千多个陶俑、陶馬来看,幾乎無一雷同。由於挖掘時候的破損,很多陶俑已殘缺不堪,雖經工丈們的努力修復,可是還有肢體不全的。 

秦俑的出土,和舉世聞名的長城,都是秦始皇的豐功偉業,再加上他在貨幣,度量衡,和文字的統一上的貢獻,使後世對這位史家筆下焚書坑儒暴君的評價徹底從寫。值得一提的還有他的大將蒙恬發明了毛筆,使中國的書法能夠閃耀於世界。 

吃過午飯後,我們回到西安途中,部分團友, 李廣耀,李南祥,范先信等在車上呈獻了精彩的笑談和歌技。傍晚我們返回西安逛回民街小吃,欣賞當地的美食和回族風情。 回民街遊客擠湧,燈火嘹亮,叫賣聲嘈雜, 好不熱鬧。 小吃販在店門外切肉,表演熟練的刀法,做饃的師傅規律地搥搗麵團,也有吊著全羊在剖割的,燒肉串五花八門色香味俱全,直讓人為垂涎三尺。晚飯前, 我們的遊覽車經過長安古城南門, 來到慈恩寺參觀大雁塔, 團友們在玄奘塑像前瀏覽拍照。慈恩寺是太宗時代(653)建立,藏有唐僧從印度帶回的數百經書。接著是我們校友團嚐到在中國的第一個清真式的晚餐,席中杯觥交錯,興高采烈。 

次日、 我們朝兩小時車程位於寶雞縣的法門寺出發。 車上, 范先信, 吳元椿, 等唱歌說笑,帶給大家一番歡欣熱鬧。 

法門寺最早興建的時代已無從考據,只知北魏時期(公元550)已經存在,又說始建于東漢,距今约有1700多年歷史。法門寺因佛祖舍利而置塔,因塔而建寺,原名阿育王寺,唐代時改名為法門寺,成為皇室寺院。千餘年來經過各朝代多次的摧毀和重建, 1988年演變成現今宏觀的面貌。法門寺景區面積達9平方公里,通過了遊客中心和入口處,進到了佛光大道,兩旁的18尊菩薩塑像金碧輝煌,守護著盡頭裡面的佛祖舍利。 1987年法門寺地宮被打開,約2500件大唐國寶,簇擁著佛祖真身指骨舍利重回人間。 2009年合什舍利塔落成,安奉佛指舍利。 出土文物展現於法門寺博物館,展出120件金銀器,其中有佛教最高法器四股十二環錫杖,武則天金襉繡裙,很多皇帝迎送佛骨用的禮器,以及各種茶具。其他如琉璃器, 秘色瓷,絲織品,佛經,佛像等。法門寺真身寶塔始建於東漢末年,約有1700年歷史。 明朝萬曆年間(1579)地震後重建, 八角13 層, 60餘公尺, 置有大小佛像菩薩像104尊。 

午飯後 是漫長8小時的車程,李林祥,蔣水鳳先後舒展美麗的歌喉,Sean 的廣東歌直像是戲台上粵劇小生,還秀了指功。於是我們終於過了秦嶺進入甘肅省的天水市。 

9/5 日上午,我們到了天水市東南50公里的麥積山石窟。麥積山石窟始建於公元384年的後秦,至隋朝完成,完整保留至今, 是中國聞名世界的藝術寶庫。這裏現存194個洞窟, 中有從公元4世紀到19世紀以來的泥塑和石雕7000餘件,以及壁畫;它和敦煌莫高窟,大同雲岡石窟,洛陽龍門石窟合稱中國四大石窟。洞窟大都開鑿在懸崖峭壁之上,洞窟之間全靠架設在崖面上的凌空棧道通達。團友們攀登上這些蜿蜒曲折的凌空棧道梯階,真是驚心動魄,十分疲累,卻也欣幸目睹了這些鬼斧神工的藝術寶藏,驚嘆於古人的精藝和智慧。午飯後校友團繼續行程到達天水市。 

9/6 日早上, 我們在黎明前出發, 巴士通過狹小難行的山路, 來到了武山縣鴛鴦鎮。鴛鴦鎮面積115平方公里, 人口3萬, 玉石礦產豐富, 鴛鴦玉「夜光杯」聞名海外。進入丁家門村, 校長老師們在路口迎接引導我們進入, 村民們夾道歡迎我們這些遠道而來的樹人校友。才到樹人愛心小學的大門, 炮竹聲四面響起, 小學生們整裝排列著在銅樂中拍掌歡迎,大家都很興奮鼓舞。學校佔地面積5400平方公尺, 校舍3棟, 綜合教學樓總面積1540m2,總投資432萬元, 其中樹人建樹人愛心計劃捐贈資金40萬元。武山縣的領導們出席了學校的落成典禮, 場面隆重。典禮的節目包括了唱國歌,校名匾額揭幕儀式,小學生代表致歡迎詞,武山縣領導致詞, 校友團代表吳啟康致勉勵詞,強調了十年樹木,百年樹人的宗旨。校方接受樹人建樹人計劃建校捐款40萬元,雙方互贈禮品, 紀念品。原越南峴港校董高帝存, 許毅男贈與校方的祝賀文幅,樹人愛心計劃贈送給學校的物品包括電腦,投影機, 卡拉 OK 體育器材等, 給老師們的手錶, 以及5名優秀學生的獎品。王永健宣佈每年提供初中升學獎學金給5名優等學生。派送給學生們的物品包括校服, 鞋子, 書包, 文具, 蚊帳, 被子,襪子, 水壺等。學生們提著滿袋子的贈品, 高興得不可言喻, 也喜煞了校門外張望的家長。學生給來賓表演了多場舞蹈助興, 最後校友們參加了植樹活動。來訪的爺爺奶奶叔叔阿姨忙著和孩子們合照, 交流, 高興得眉飛眼笑。 下午我們從天水市繼續行程到達平涼市。 

9/7  上午從平涼市酒店出發到12公里外的道教聖地崆峒山景區。車上李廣茂講述了他在離開越南時怒海餘生的驚險過程。崆峒山是六盤山的支脈, 屬於丹霞地貌, 最高海拔2100公尺,氣候涼爽,  自古有山色天下秀的美譽。聽說秦皇,漢武, 唐太宗都曾登山問道,文人墨客在這裡留下很多記載,崆峒武術馳名華夏, 金庸的題句崆峒武術, 威峙西陲使武俠小說迷的老年遊客更為之嚮往。崆峒山峰林聳峙, 幽壑縱橫,涵洞遍佈, 嘆為奇觀。從山頂下眺, 涇河河谷,平涼市盡收眼底。

下午校友團遊覽了胭脂峽, 繼續行程到達寧夏回族自治區的固原市。 途中, 李廣茂細說了他的偶像鄧麗君的愛情遭遇,堪為一失足成千古恨。 

9/8  上午團友們赴彭陽縣王窪鎮樹人學校,參加開幕典禮。 王窪鎮人口3萬,煤礦資源豐富,鄉村以草畜為生。樹人小學為原中心學校擴建, 預計可容納學生1500名, 教師80名。10時正典禮開始,奏國歌,縣委代表致歡迎詞。校名匾額,落成典禮紀念碑揭幕。 校方接受樹人建樹人計劃建校捐款40萬元,雙方交換紀念品, 學生贈送手工藝品,學生代表致謝詞 樹人校友許汝寧代表致詞,強調了中華文化的博大精深,中國國勢的強盛。接著是樹人建樹人愛心計劃王永健致詞,校長致詞,學生唱樹人校歌,贈送禮物給老師們,贈送給學校電腦等教學用品,萌社校李威寄贈的寧夏女生作品馬燕日記,其中詳述了她失學謀生讓弟弟完成學業的故事。王永健宣佈每年提供初中升學獎學金給5名優等學生。派送給學生們的物品包括校服, 鞋子, 書包, 文具, 蚊帳, 被子,襪子, 水壺等。學生舞蹈表演,樹人校友合唱樹人心,樹人情,最後是植樹活動。我們在學校食堂聚餐, 校友和孩子們打成一片,融洽無間。 

下午3個半小時的車程,在李美顏的歌聲和范先信夫張麗卿夫唱婦隨中,我們來到了同心縣, 參觀同心清真大寺。這是寧夏回族自治區年代最久,規模最大的清真寺,曾有不少知名的穆斯林學者在这里求學講道, 600年的歷史。它的建築風格以漢式為主,融入了穆斯林的精美裝飾,是回漢文化交融的結晶。公元18世紀中葉地震後重建。 

9/9 早上我們來到了河西鎮的樹人小學。學校佔地14萬平方公尺, 建築面積1500餘平方公尺,可容納學生400 人, 由樹人建樹人愛心計劃捐獻40萬人民幣建設完成。因為下雨,落成典禮在禮堂舉行。典禮儀式包括校名匾額揭幕,樹人建樹人愛心計劃和學校代表交換紀念禮品,學生代表致詞歡迎各位來賓。樹人校友代表吳啟康,許汝寧相續致詞,勉勵學生勤奮學習, 報效國家。 寧夏青基會秘書長劉升祥,扶貧辦公室主任馬希豐分別作了講話。學生們表演了精彩的舞蹈節目。樹人建樹人代表贈送手錶禮物給老師,贈送給學校電腦等教學用品,萌社校友李威寄贈的寧夏女生作品馬燕日記 王永健宣佈每年提供初中升學獎學金給5名優等學生。派送給學生們校服, 鞋子, 書包, 文具, 蚊帳, 被子,襪子, 水壺等物品。在學校午飯後,可愛的孩子們拿著小紙片鉛筆搶著要我們簽名留念,大家一下子簽了幾十個名,忙得好不開交,卻也樂在其中。 

參加了甘肅, 寧夏3所樹人小學落成典禮後,我們對這裡濃濃的鄉土人情,和那些天真活潑的孩子,感到無比的親切和留戀。我們感謝李廣茂,葉茵萍伉儷主導的樹人建樹人愛心計畫成員,讓我們再一次參加這麼意義重大捐建學校的工作,讓樹人閃耀於祖國大西北黃土高原上。 

下午我們暢遊中衛的荷塘,通過曲曲折折的木橋,欣賞那些若隱若現的芙蓉,空氣中偶爾送來陣陣醉人的清香,正是萬綠叢中點點紅的景象,也恰如南宋詩人宋萬里在接天蓮葉無窮碧,眏日荷花別樣紅裡的寫照。那些亭亭淨植的菡萏如淡抹的俏臉穿夾在綠葉中,構成了一幅清雅亮麗的采畫。 中衛市位於黃河西岸,與甘肅,內蒙古相鄰,物產富饒, 素有天下黃河富寧夏, 首富中衛之說。金沙島的薰衣草園,是十分美麗的景區,這裡滿山遍野的薰衣草,呈現一片紫色的花海,雖然已經過了盛開季節,可還是十里飄香,是中國的普羅旺斯(Provence), 充滿著浪漫與愛的氣氛。 

9/10 早上我們來到了寧夏與內蒙古交界騰格里沙漠的通湖草原,這裏一眼望去, 湖水,草原,沙漠, 綠洲連在一起,是騰格里沙漠腹地中的綠洲, 被稱為沙漠的伊甸園 雖然是草原, 卻沒有風吹草低見牛羊的壯觀景象。進了入口處,有電動車載我們到達草原中心,這裏可看到新式的蒙古包和馬場,再換車到達沙漠, 經過電影刺陵的拍攝地點後改成的刺陵客棧酒吧旅館,在沙漠旁邊確有一番情趣。從這裡我們開始踏上金黃色的沙漠,黃沙幼如粉,在上面步行上斜坡很吃力, 站不穩的會仆倒。到了沙丘頂,可以看到一望無際的黃沙,和下面的小湖,駝隊在沙上來回走動。強社的許汝寧不禁滔滔的唸著李陵答蘇武書涼秋九月,塞外草衰, 夜不能寐。側耳遠聽, 胡笳互動,牧馬悲鳴..... “。回到刺陵客棧, 大家忙著把鞋子脫下卸除滲入的沙粉。部份校友在排列的吊板上躍行,怪相百出,引來哄堂大笑。 

午飯後,我們來到了高廟。高廟始建於明永樂年間, 至今已有600年歷史。此後又因地震數次重建,成為現今的樣子。山門是保安寺,上有窺星樓, 從彌勒閣上15級台階到佛門大雄寶殿,東西側是道家的地藏宮,山霄宮。在上去便是南天門,下有地獄宮, 呈現了18層地獄的神話境界,驚心動魄, 發人深省。 高廟是唯一三教合一的寺廟,釋,儒, 道,濟濟一堂。它是一座氣勢雄偉,風格迴異的建築群體。 

接著我們繼續觀光行程到了黃河峽谷的沙坡頭,看到了黃河上的羊皮筏子,那是用羊牛完整的皮張製作的皮囊充氣後, 912個皮囊連在一起而成, 是已有1500年歷史的河上交通工具。沙坡頭位於騰格里沙漠東南端,面臨黃河, 海拔1500公尺,集大漠,黃河,高山,綠洲於一處,有中國最大的天然滑沙場和橫跨黃河的天下黃河第一索。我們經自動扶梯爬上坡頭頂,眺望著寂靜迂迴的黃河——母親河,和無垠的金沙,在大詩人王維的塑像前拍照留念。讀著王維使出塞上的名句 大漠孤煙直, 長河落日圓,看著遊客擁擠的坡頭,想起詩人當年的意境, 和今日景象的對照,感慨萬千。我們乘纜車下了坡頭,觀賞年輕人步行下坡,滑沙,吊索等驚險活動。 

9/11  上午我們來到黃河青銅峽邊的西夏108塔。 108塔建於何時, 沒有明文考據,有說是宋朝為紀念當年穆桂英點將而建。1958年修建青銅峽水庫時發掘出帶有西夏文的千佛圖畫及佛經, 確定為西夏時期的遺產。西夏是10381227五代時黨項族建立的王朝。108塔建築群共12級平台, 總高31.8公尺, 59公尺,整體形狀呈等腰三角形,12 級平台由上而下每層分別有1 33557 9 11 1315 17 19 座塔,合成108塔,位於最高處的塔較高大,其他107座塔則差不多大小。1963108塔被定為全國重點文物保護單位。站在最上級的平台上,看見青銅峽兩山對峙,黃河在中間流淌,山河相襯,風光旖旎。據說這裡是候鳥天堂,每年春季數以萬計的候鳥從南方遷徙而来,在這裏產卵孵育。 

中午校友團到達寧夏首府銀川市,參觀中華回鄉文化園。文化園的大門主體是依照印度泰姬陵設計建造的,從遠處就能看到她的身影。 午飯後,在回族博物館了解了中國回族的歷史與文化,並認識到中國歷史上的著名回族人士如鄭和,海瑞,常遇春,白崇禧等。接著我們參觀造型奇偉的金色回族禮儀大殿,看到她在水池裡的倒影,甚為壯觀。她融合了伊斯蘭古典結構和中國回族清真寺的裝飾特色,可以容納3000人做禮拜。大殿外觀以潔白的大理石建造,金色的圓頂和潔白大理石牆壁顯現無比高雅神聖。我們依照俗習脫了鞋,女士們圍上頭巾進入大殿,排坐在地毯上,聽女講解員介紹大殿的結構和歷史,然後誦經做禮拜。大殿內是伊斯蘭的彩色圖樣磁磚牆柱,正面的聖圖裝飾以金色為主,十分華麗美觀,但不失其莊嚴肅穆。 

我們下一個景點是位於靈武市臨和鎮明長城腳下的水洞溝遺址。192023年間,比利時的紹特神父和法國的古生物學家們在這裡發現了動物頭骨和石器, 揭開了中國舊石器時代(距今250萬年~1萬年前)製作場的遺址。經過很多次的發掘,他們還發現了大量新石器時代的石器, 證明這裡地下埋藏了新舊石器時代的石器製品。19631980年間,中國科學家們進行了數次系統性發掘,出土了數千件石器包括動物化石,鑑定了水洞溝遺址對中國舊石器時代的特殊地位,也見證了中西文化交流的歷史。水洞溝博物館是中國西部地區唯一展示舊石器時代面貌的主題博物館,吸引了眾多中外學者專家來這裡參觀研究。博物館的下沉地面的展廳以幻影,聲光特技,讓遊客從時光隧道走入了遠古石器時代人們的生活情景,和山洪暴發,天崩地裂的大自然力量,體驗到震撼的感受。水洞村展現了遠古時代人們的生活起居和手藝。水洞溝是中國的文化遺址,被譽為中國史前考古發祥地,也是一處地質公園,這裏的大自然景觀更使她成了遠近聞名的旅遊景點, 這裡我們還看到明長城的遺蹟。我們乘船遊覽了紅山湖,看長城,斷崖倒影水中,情趣盎然。輪流坐駱駝和驢車到峽谷裡的藏兵洞。藏兵洞是明代駐軍屯兵的坑道,如同一座地下迷宮, 蜿蜒於懸壁之中,我們在很多狹隘的通道裡參觀了當時的軍隊的辦公室,會議室, 彈藥庫,糧庫,灶房;洞內通風良好,顯示出先民的智慧,也想像出當時士兵的艱苦環境。藏兵洞是大自然造成的神奇景觀,它和長城, 烽隧,構成了完整的軍事防禦體系。 

09/12 早上的目的地是位於平羅縣西南的沙湖,這裡是集金沙,碧湖,濕地於一處的景區。我們在入口處乘坐遊船穿過叢叢蘆葦到達南岸碼頭,步行過曲折的木橋到達湖水環繞的沙丘,參觀了濕地博物館。濕地博物館介紹了濕地知識, 生物, 文化,展出精美的圖片。之後我們出來步行上沙丘,看到很多駱駝蹲著在場地沙上,也有在沙丘上分隊行走,遠眺著碧藍的湖水和蔓連的蘆葦, 好一幅美麗的天然動畫,不愧為塞上明珠。游過沙湖,午餐我們品嚐了沙湖特色的大頭魚──燉魚頭味道十分鮮美。 

填飽了肚子,我們繼續行程,來到寧夏與內蒙古交界的賀蘭山。這裏的西面是騰格里沙漠,東面是寧夏平原,所以成為地理和氣候的重要分界線。看到賀蘭山怪石嶙峋,陡峭險峻,想起了岳飛"滿江紅"裡豪氣激憤的詞句 駕長車,踏破賀蘭山缺!“。這位精忠報國的英雄並沒有完成他的心願,若然岳飛地下有知,賀蘭山不再是無法攻破的屏障,已歸入中華的版圖,不曉得有何感想? 我們今天來到賀蘭山, 是要參觀山上的岩畫。在賀蘭山岩畫博物館參觀了中國與世界各地岩畫的圖像後, 我們沿著山路步行到東麓的各個溝口實地觀看磨刻在山石上的岩畫。這些岩畫大部分是春秋時代北方的西戎,匈奴, 鮮卑,突厥等民族留下來的藝術作品。岩畫筆法簡潔粗獷樸實,鑿刻或磨製而成,內容都是有關狩獵,放牧,征戰,舞蹈,祭祀的形象, 還有動物以及符號等。管理人員已用紅色圓點標誌了山石上的岩畫所在, 以便利遊人尋找觀看。我們大家都讚嘆古人的智慧與才技,能夠在高山上留下了不朽的藝術文化。 

從賀蘭山下來, 我們到了銀川市,參觀枸杞種植園。寧夏是枸杞之鄉,我們在海外的華人對枸杞並不陌生。在枸杞園可以任意採摘,首次品嚐到新鮮枸杞,都覺得比在家喝的枸杞湯鮮美多了。服務人員告訴我們新鮮的枸杞過一天就爛了,大家忙著在銷售中心採購精裝的乾枸杞帶回家。 

樹人愛心之旅第一行程到此結束。部份樹人校友團團員於9/13日和留下參加第二旅程的校友一一道別返回美國。 

 

2016 樹人愛心之旅之二

在菩薩懷抱裡過中秋 

9/13 參加樹人愛心之旅第二行程的校友30餘人,早上乘一輛大巴從銀川市出發, 向東通過陝北往山西省方向走。沿途在公路上不時看到遠處山邊的窯洞。窯洞是這一帶地區常見的居所,是黃土高原上特有的漢族民居形式,傍山而建,一孔孔的, 高原上的黃土黏硬,不易坍塌,據說住在裡面冬暖夏涼。不過現在由於時代的發展,很多窯洞都已被棄廢。經過了漫長的旅途,我們終於在傍晚時分到達了山西省南面的平遙古鎮。 

9/14  早餐後, 我們隨著導遊步行過平遙鎮中心,來到平遙古城樓。平遙古城有2700年歷史,是目前中國保存最完整的四座古城之一, 1997年被列入世界文化遺產。城牆高12公尺,以磚石砌成,堅實完整,城內街道, 衙門,市樓, 商店,民居仍保留原有的明代形式,簡直是一座龐大的博物館。山西古名晉,就是春秋時代的晉國所在。到清朝時期, 商業發達,晉商的事業遍及各地,所以也成了中國的金融中心,當時總部設在平遙的票號(相等於現今的銀行)就超過20家,可以稱為古代中國的華爾街。午飯前, 我們逛平遙鎮商業街道,看到除了當地美食, 很多店裡擺著大大小小的罈子,左邊是汾酒, 右邊是醋,皆為山西名產。山西人喜歡醋, 導遊告訴我們那是因為山西人每天都吃麵食,醋可以中和麵食裡的鹼味, 是很好的調味料。之後我們參觀了著名的“日昇昌”票號原址,了解了當時票號的生意運作的情況。 

下午我們繼續行程來到喬家大院。這裡是乾隆年間晉商喬志庸家族的宅第,位于山西省祁縣喬家堡村。始建于1756年,整個院落呈雙“喜”字形,分為6個大院,内套20個小院,313間房屋,建築面積4175平方公尺,三面臨街,四周是高達10幾公尺的全封閉青磚牆,正面是城門式的大門,是一座具有北方漢族傳统民居建築風格的古宅。宅院到處都可看到美麗精緻的雕刻, 展現出商家大宅吉祥順遂的喻意,壁上掛著嚴謹的家訓制度, 包括了善待僱傭賞罰分明的規則。1986年開放為民俗博物館,這裡曾是大家熟悉的電影電視「大紅燈籠高高掛」, 「喬家大院」的拍攝地點。 

逛完了喬家大院,我們來到了位於太原市西南的晉祠。晉祠本來是奉祀春秋時代周武王的兒子叔虞而建的, 他的歷史可以追溯到北魏時期,已經有一千多年了。唐太宗李世民(公元646年間)留下了他撰寫的“晉祠之銘並序”的碑文,雖然經過了時代遠久的侵蝕, 石碑表面一片漆黑,可是還依稀可讀。後來又加建了聖母殿, 周遭崇樓高閣,小橋流水, 亭榭環繞,一片園林風光。 我們參觀了”難老泉“,周柏“ 以及”水母和侍女像”,號稱晉祠三絕。 周柏又名臥龍柏,相傳是西周時所植, 樹身向西南傾斜成40度角,枝葉攀附在殿宇上, 數千年屹立不倒, 至今仍然生機勃勃,濃蔭四佈。明末清初文醫並絕的名人傅青山的傅山紀念館裡展出了他的書法與繪畫。 

從晉祠出來, 校友團來到了山西省會太原市境。 

9/15 早上我們沿著高速公路向東北走, 200多公里的路程,中午到達五台山。 五台山是中國四大佛教名山之首,世界佛教五大聖地之一,文殊菩薩的道場,被列為世界文化遺產,也是中國十大名山之一, 海拔3000多公尺, 共有5座平頂的山峰,故名五台, 現存寺院47處,多是歷朝皇帝敕建作為朝拜的地方。這裡氣候寒涼, 被稱作“清涼山“。遠遠望見塔院寺的大白塔那是五台山的標誌性建築物。 我們爬了108級台階上到有喇嘛宮之稱的菩薩頂, 佛家說人生有108種煩惱,來到這裡, 我們已經把煩惱都踏在腳下,可以無憂無慮了。菩薩頂是五台山規模最大最完整的喇嘛寺院,建築雄偉, 金碧輝煌。穿過天王殿,我們來到前院,裡面古樹參天,石碑林立, 優雅清靜。 前面是大雄寶殿, 他的右側是大文殊殿,殿內有三尊兩公尺高的菩薩銅像, 正中的是文殊,左邊是觀音,右邊是普賢。我們也看到明朝時期鑄造的大銅鍋, 是以前喇嘛作煮粥用的,後來一個小喇嘛爬進鍋裏清洗, 因為鍋子太深,差點沒能爬上來, 因此就没有再用完。菩薩頂之所以馳名, 是因為清代歷年皇帝常來參拜的緣故,康熙帝還御筆寫了「五台聖境」刻於石牌上,於是就有了金庸小說裡的康熙的父親順治皇帝五台山出家的故事。在菩薩頂我們往下眺望, 五台山的全貌盡收眼底,一覽無遺。 108台階走下來和爬上去一樣, 頗為吃力,我們的五台山遊覽也到此結束。回到酒店,晚上吃了一頓佛門素齋晚宴, 剛好是中秋節,酒店給我們安排了五台山的月餅。晚飯後,大家在酒店外觀賞特大的皓月, 拍下美麗的照片,就如朱導遊說的, 樹人校友團由於愛心很幸運地在佳節來到聖山,在文殊菩薩的懷抱裡過了一個有意義的中秋節。 

9/16 早上我們往北朝大同市方向走,沿途參觀了位於應縣的木塔,也稱佛宮寺釋迦塔。 這是世界現存最古老、最高的木塔。其確切建造年代無從考證,但可從其建築風格和相關文物信息確認其建造時間在一千多年前的遼代。塔高約67公尺, 5層, 全部為木質結構,每層都有佛像, 5層外檐掛有明成祖朱棣御筆寫的「峻極神工」匾牌, 4層是明武宗寫的「天下奇觀」匾牌,塔內供奉著兩顆佛牙舍利。 

下午我們來到大同渾源縣境參觀懸空寺。懸空寺是一座儒釋道三教合一的寺廟, 始建於距今約1700年前北魏時期, 現存的建築都是明清時代重建的。整座寺廟建立在翠峰山的半腰上, 只靠27根木樑支撐著整座寺廟, 形如懸於空中,故稱為懸空寺, 裡面共有40間房屋,全部是木材結構, 歷久不衰,令人 嘆為觀止。可惜因為適逢假日,遊人眾多, 進入懸空寺有人數限制,遊客排長龍,我們只好望門興嘆,從遠處拍照留念。 

離開懸空寺,我們繼續行程,到達雲岡石窟。雲岡石窟始建於北魏年間,是中國第一處由皇室開鑿的大型石窟。石窟依山開鑿, 綿延1公里, 共有51個洞窟,裡面大小佛蹲1100座, 佛像51000尊, 最大佛像高7公尺, 最小僅2公釐高, 全是在山石上彫鑿出來的藝術品,最高的石窟達20公尺。我們在一個石窟裡看到石壁上刻滿了大大小小的佛像上萬尊,圍繞著窟中的大佛,被稱為萬佛洞。由於年代的風蝕,很多佛像已經破損,但整體還算完整,有些佛像面露微笑,容貌慈祥。洞內不許拍照, 但我們偷偷拍下一些照片留念。2011 年雲岡石窟被列入世界文化遺產。 

9/17 早上大家離開大同市到機場乘機飛上海,由於班機誤點,下午才抵達浦東。 

9/18  從上海出發,經浙江寧波市過杭州灣跨海大橋往舟山群島。杭州灣跨海大橋全部是中國工程師設計完成的建築, 全長36公里,是中國現今第二長,也是全世界第三長的跨海大橋, 節省了陸路交通時間約4小時,縮短路程120公里。橋的設計甚為美觀壯麗,七彩的橋欄,像彩虹掛在兩旁,增添了它的美學及觀賞性。 

到達舟山已過午時,吃完中飯,我們趕著去乘渡船往普陀山,因為有颱風來臨, 恐怕會停航,所以要在傍晚前返回。普陀山不是山,而是島,位於東海上,島上的紫竹林是觀音菩薩修道的地方,是中國佛教四大名山之一。船到普陀山,我們首先參觀了普濟寺, 它的前身是“不肯去觀音院”。話說1100多年前唐朝時期,日本僧人慧顎來中國五台山朝拜學佛,驚呆於觀音菩薩的莊嚴寶像容貌清秀,慈祥可親, 就決心禮請觀音東臨日本,救度眾生。懇得方丈允許後, 慧顎奉觀音寶像上船歸國,途中遇到風浪折返,屢次出海都不能成行,認定菩薩不肯東渡,於是跟著漁民上普陀山,讓觀音菩薩定居於此,造了一座小庵,稱為“不肯去觀音院”,便是普濟寺的前身, 座落於紫竹林,這裡到處可見紫色的竹子, 故名。我們從普濟寺步行了20分鐘到南海觀音像, 沿途不時碰到還願的虔誠人士三跪九叩到那裡的。紫竹林依山面水, 濤聲梵音頻傳,不愧海天佛國的美譽。 觀音菩薩銅鑄立像高18公尺, 左手托法輪,右手無畏印, 寶像端莊慈祥,豎立在10多公尺的三層台基上。 站在台基上願望周遭的景色,山勢起伏,松竹翠鬱,綠水環繞, 我們想白居易的長恨歌裡「忽聞海上有仙山,山在虛無縹緲間」應該就是這麼個所在吧。我們在黃昏前乘渡輪回到舟山市過夜。 

9/19日上午, 我們的大巴原路返回,到達浙江省寧波市午飯, 品嚐了寧波美食。飯後,我們參觀中國最古老的私人圖書館,也是世界最早的三大家族圖書館之一「天一閣」。 寧波天一閣是一個以藏書文化為核心,集藏書的研究、保護、管理、陳列、社會教育、旅遊觀光於一體的專題性博物館。現藏古籍達30餘萬卷,還收藏大量的字畫、碑帖以及精美的地方工藝品。天一閣佔地面積2.6萬平方米,建於明朝中期,由當時退隱的兵部右侍郎範欽主持建造,其中包括范欽自己的藏書樓「東明草堂」。 它的整體設計以園林風格為主,像一座書香綿綿的宅第。 

參觀了天一閣博物館之後,大家離開寧波回到上海, 完成了2016愛心之旅。

 

Tour of Love - China 2016(1)

Flying Vividly on the Loess Plateau 

Our Tho Nhon alumni group of more than 60, joining the Tour of Love to Shaanxi-Gansu-Ningxia in north western China, convened at the city of Xi'an on Sep 2, 2016. Xi'an, named Chang’an in the olden days, had been the imperial city of 12 dynasties including Zhou, Qin and the North-South period. It was the longest reigning imperial city as well as the starting point of the Silk Road, the earliest city connected to the West, and that was where our tour set off. 

On Sep 3 we visited the Terra Cotta Museum of Emperor Qin, one of the eight World Wonders designated by the United Nations. Under the reign of Emperor Qin Shihuang, the 1st emperor of China (259 BC), figures of soldiers and horses molded with Terra Cotta and baked, at real sizes that looked his live forces, were buried with the Emperor as his guards after death, collectively called The Terra Cotta Figures. As this had been kept from the outside world, no data of such could be extracted from history books until July 1974, when the Yang farmers in Lintong County while digging wells discovered the terra cotta figures. Thus in the span of 2 years a total of 3 pits were excavated. On its site rose the Qin Shihuang Terra Cotta Museum, with a total construction area of 4.5 hectares, where around 6,000 restored relics had been displayed in exhibition in the past 35 years. These were composed of bronze chariots and weapons, as well as other jade artifacts. 

Pit No.1 has an area of 13,260m2, displaying soldiers in attention; Pit No.2, with an area of 6,000m2, presents combat soldiers, commanders and horses lining up for battle; while Pit No.3 is the headquarter of all. Around 50,000 relics were unearthed in the past 4 decades. 

The Terra Cotta figures were molded by adopting a combined method of painting and carving, such that despite long periods of time, the face and colors of the uniform of each figure unearthed still could be seen. The techniques of the artists were agile, with fantastic compositions of design, offering a sense of reality and yet quite decorative. As such, the Qin Terra Cotta Figures remains in the forefront in the history of the Chinese sculpture. Out of the figures of soldiers and horses unearthed, one could not find a figure identical with another. As a result of damages during the excavations, many figures were shattered, with incomplete bodies, in spite of the restoring work done by technical experts.  

The Terra Cotta as well as the world renown Great Wall of China comprises the great achievement of Emperor Qin Shiwang. In addition, he was recognized for contribution in the unification of currency, measurement and writing characters. All these have invited the present time historians to totally review and revalue this great man who used to be viewed as the cruel Emperor who ordered books burnt and scholars buried alive. Worth mentioning is the invention of the brush by his general, Mengtian, that resulted in Chinese calligraphy and painting shining in the world.

After lunch, on the way back to Xi'an, some members of the group viz. Ly Quang Dieu, Ly Lam Tuong, Pham Tien Tin respectively presented wonderful jokes and songs for entertainment. Late afternoon we roamed around on Muslim Street where we enjoyed  local tradition and delicacies. The area was filled with tourists and well lit up. Vendors were noisily promoting food products to the crowds. Some were slicing meat in front of the stalls, showing off their cutting techniques, others busily pounding the flour paste on a huge chopping block for making Muslim buns. There was the guy erecting the whole dressed lamb on a steel rod for dissecting. Barbecued meat on skewers presented varieties of flavors, which were truly mouth watering. 

Before dinner our bus passed by the South Gate of the wall city and brought us to Ci'en Temple to see the Dayan Pagoda. We took pictures at the statue of Reverent Xuanzhang, a monk during the Tang dynasty (635 AD) who was sent to India to study Buddhist teachings and brought back hundreds of Sutras which had since been kept in the library of the temple. After that, we were able to have the first dinner savoring authentic Muslim food. It was quite a nice occasion in party spirit. 

Next day, we headed on a 2 hour trip for Famen Temple. On the bus, there were no dull moments thanks to the songs and jokes brought by Pham Tien Tin, Ngo Nguyen Xuan and others. 

There was no trace of when Famen Temple was built. We only learnt the temple had been existing since the time of North Wei period (550 AD), some said it started during East Han dynasty, around 1700 years ago. Famen temple began with the stupa that enshrined Buddha's sarira---a small piece of bone remain after the cremation of Buddha. The temple was built for the stupa, and was made the Imperial Temple during the Tang Dynasty.  We saw a splendid temple and monastery that had gone through times of reconstruction after damages, destruction and evolution up to the year 1988 which is what appear at the present. Famen Temple covers a scenic area of 9km. From the tourist center we passed the entrance leding to the Avenue of Aura with dazzling golden statues of 18 arhats or disciples of Buddha lining on both sides keeping guard to the Buddha's Sarira enshrined in the Namaste Dagoba or Close Palms Stupa at the end. In 1987 a crypt was excavated here unearthing around 2500 items of national treasure dated back to the Tang Dynasty. In the same time the finger bone sarira of Buddha was found. In 2009 the Namaste Dagoba was put up enshrining the Sarira. The historical relics in exhibition at the museum included 120 gold and silverware artifacts of which  was The Four-Strand Twelve-Ring Khakkara (a ringed staff) of 1.96 meter in length, which was the most supreme Buddhism ritual instrument made of gold and silver offered by the Tang Emperor. Others were the Gold Couching Embroidered Skirt said to belong to Empress Wu Zetian, the most powerful lady in the history of Tang Dynasty, ritual utensils for the reception of the Buddha's relic, various royal tea sets, colored glaze glass wares, mystic color ceramic wares, as well as silk fabric, sutras and Buddha figures. 

Famen Genuine Relic Pagoda was built during Eastern Han period, around 1700 years ago. In 1579 during the Ming Dynasty it was rebuilt after an earthquake that sent it to ruins. Hexagonal in shape, 13 levels of total 60 meters high, enshrining 104 various size figures of Buddha and the Bodhisattvas.  

After lunch, on the 8 hour long trip, we had fantastic entertainers on board Sean Ly Lam Tuong, Tuong Thuy Phung respectively performing Cantonese songs in which Sean even showed his finger moves similar to those presented by an opera performer on stage. Thus our tour group passed the Qin Range and arrived at Tianshui City, Gansu Province. 

On the morning of Sep 5, we went to visit Maijishan Cave Grottoes about 50km from Tianshui. The Grottoes were first built in Mount Maiji in 384 AD during the Later Qin period and completed in Shui Dynasty. They had been properly preserved in their entirety up to the present as the world renown treasure of art in China. There are totally 194 caves existing, housing more than 7000 Grottoes carved out in clay and stone on site spanning from the 4th to 19th centuries, including rock painting. With Dunhuang Mogao Grotto Caves, Datong Yungang Grotto Caves and Luoyang Longmen Grotto Caves together they form the four well known Grotto Caves of China.  

The caves are mostly cut out on the cliffs. The only connection among caves were narrow walkaways built along the cliffs. Climbing up those winding and steep stairways overlooking the ravines beneath to view these wonderful art works was truly a thrilling and tiring experience. We all exclaimed in astonishment at the perfect wisdom and craftsmanship of our forefathers.

After lunch, we continued our journey and arrived Wushan County.

Sep 6.  We left before dawn. Our buses moved slowly on the narrow hilly road into the town of Yuanyang which covered an area of 115km2 with a population of around 30,000. The town was known to be rich in jade ore wherein its produce of Luminous Jade Cup is most renown overseas. Entering Dingjiamen Village where our destination the Tho Nhon Primary School was located, we were led in by the school master and teachers. Villagers lining up on both sides of the main street were giving a warm welcome to us, the Tho Nhon Alumni who came from far away places.  

Upon arriving at the school entrance, fire crackers started to rattle around and students in tidy uniform were giving us a standing applause amid noisy brass band presentation; that was truly morale boosting for the group. 

The school was built on a 5,400m2 site, with 3 buildings of which the main classroom building occupied a total area of 1,540m2. Investment involved a total of 4.32 million yuan of which the Tho Nhon Build Tho Nhon Project contributed 400,000 yuan. 

The inauguration, attended by officials of Wushan County, was really a grand and formal ceremony. The programs started with singing of the National Anthem, unveiling of the school name board, welcoming speech by student representative, enlightening talks by Wushan County officials, speech by Ngo Khai Khuong representing the visiting alumni group, stressing on the Tho Nhon objective of "a century long educating people". Following were speeches by Vuong Dinh Quoc representing Tho Nhon Alumni, and Weijie, Deputy Secretary of Shanghai Youth Development Foundation. The program continued with the School headmaster’s acceptance of contribution by Tho Nhon Build Tho Nhon Project in the amount of 400,000 yuan; exchange of gifts and souvenirs between the school and the visiting group; presenting of congratulation inscription scrolls by representatives of former directors Cao De Ton and Hua Nghi Nam of Tho Nhon in Danang, Vietnam. Items given to the School by TNBTNP included a computer, a projector, a sing along karaoke unit, some sports equipments, watches for teachers, as well as awards to 5 excellent students. On behalf of TNBTNP, Vuong Vinh Kien announced the grant of scholarship for 5 excellent graduates to attend Junior High. Daily use materials were given away to students that included uniforms, shoes, school bags, stationery, mosquito nets, blankets, socks, water kettles, etc... 

Carrying in both hands bags filled with all the gifts, the kids showed inexplicable happiness in their faces, so did their parents watching outside the gate. The students then performed nice dances for the audience. Last was the tree planting activity by the guests. The visiting elders were busy having picture taking session with the kids and communicating with these cute little friends with great rejoice. In the afternoon we moved on to Pingliang City. 

On Sep 7 we headed for Mount Kongtong, a sacred place of Taoism, about 12km away from Pingliang. On the way, Vincent Ly Quang Mao told us his story and thrilling experience of the trip getting out of Vietnam.  

Mount Kongtong, a sacred land of Taoism, a branch mountain of Liupanshan, was a red sandstone landform, with the highest peak at 2100m above sea level. The climate here was practically cool, boasted as the best scenic mountain in China. It was said that the imperial powers in history including emperors Qin Shihuang and Han Wudi had reached here to give ears to the preaching of Taoist monks. Famous writers and poets had left behind lots of writings. The Kongtong Sect of Chinese stood out in the maritial arts of China. We read the inscription of noted martial art story writer Jinyong which said "Kongtong martial arts renown all over the West" attracted many of his reader-tourists. 

Mount Kongtong was filled with wooded peaks, serene paths and culverts. It was quite a place of great wonder. Looking down from the high spots, we had a bird's eye view of the Jing River valley as well as the entire city of Pingliang. 

In the afternoon, we dropped by Yanzi Xia, or Rouge Canyon and continued our journey to the City of Gu'yuan, in Ningxia Muslim Autonomous Region. On the way, Vincent Ly told the love story of Theresa Deng, the late famous Chinese singer and his idol, which truly depicted what was said by "a single slip may cause lasting sorrow". 

On Sep 8 we attended the inauguration of Tho Nhon Primary School at Wangwa town, Pengyang County. The town had an inhabitancy of 30,000, rich in coal ore, with local people in the country side living on cattle raising. The school had been existing as Central School, then expanded to be Tho Nhon Primary School which was designed to accommodate up to 1,500 students and 80 teachers. The ceremony began at 10am sharp, with the singing of the National Anthem, followed by speech of the county's representing official, unveiling of name board and inaugural monument. Programs were more or less similar: the of acceptance of 400,000 yuan contribution, exchange of souvenirs, handicrafts given by students, gratitude speech of students, Tho Nhon Alumni representative Hua Nhu Ninh speaking on the profound Chinese culture and the current strength of the nation. He also touched on the implication of our school motto "Develop within the just and righteous values, and emulate the good deeds of our virtuous forefathers". That was followed by Voung Vinh Kien speaking on behalf of TNBTNP, speech of the headmaster, singing of Tho Nhon School Song, gifts to teachers and the school, a book sent by Alumni Ly Oai for the school,  titled "The Ma'yan Diary" which was  the recount by a young girl from Ningxia of her own story of giving up schooling so as to help her brother continue study; announcement of scholarships for 5 excellent students, give-away of daily use items to students, performances by students, and Alumni singing the song "Tho Nhon Hearts, Tho Nhon Love". The programs ended with tree planting. We had lunch with the students at the canteen. The Alumni mingled with the kids happily and harmoniously. 

After 3 hours traveling in the afternoon, amid singing entertainment by Ly My Nhan and duet by the Pham Tien Tin/Truong Le Khinh couple, we arrived Tongxin County where we visited the grand Tongxin Mosque. It was the oldest and largest mosque in Ningxia Muslim Autonomous Region. Many Muslim scholars had come here to study and preach Islam. The mosque has a history of 600 years. Mainly designed in Han model and injected with Muslim decoration, rebuilt after the 18th century earthquake, it was the product of combination of Han and Muslim cultures. 

On Sep 9 we came to Tho Nhon Primary School at He'xi town. The school site has an area of 14 hactares, construction covered 1,500m2, said to accommodate 400 pupils, with the same amount   of donation from TNBTNP. Due to the drizzling on our arrival, the inauguration ceremony was held indoor at the auditorium. The program likewise included the unveiling of School name board, exchange of souvenirs between the School and TNBTNP, welcoming speech by a student representative, Ngo Khai Khuong and Hua Nhu Ninh made respective speeches, encouraging the students to study well for retribution to the motherland. Ningxia Youth Development Secretary Liu Shengxiang and Poverty Alleviation Office Head Ma Xifeng did enlightenment talks. TNBTNP Director Vincent Ly Guang Mao thanked the officials for attending. Students presented laudable dances. 

TNBTNP delegates presented gifts to teachers, education equipments to the School, the "Mayan Diary" books as well as the announcement of scholarships. When the sun came back shining, we distributed daily use materials to the students in the field outdoor. After lunch, the kids handed small pieces of paper and pens asking for signatures, some of us were busy doing the signing with great pleasure.  

In attending the inauguration of the 3 schools in Gansu and Ningxia, all was touched by the passion and friendship exhibited by the local people and the lovely kids. We felt deeply in our hearts and recalled fondly the memorable encounter in these places. We were grateful of the opportunity given by TNBTNP headed by the Ly Guang Mao/Diep Yen Binh couple and its officers to once again witness this meaningful school building activities, enabling Tho Nhon to shine vividly on the great loess plateau of north west China. 

In the afternoon we went to visit the lotus pond garden at the City of Zhongwei. Walking through the winding wooden bridge, we viewed the partly hidden lotus flowers in the midst of on and off fragrance. It was like some red spots among thousands of green. The scene also coincided with the fair description in a poemby Song Wanli of the Song Dynasty in which he wrote :

" Pond filling leaves present marvelous green,

Blushing are lotuses under the sun."

Those standing lotuses were just like slightly made up faces hidden in among the green leaves, exhibiting a refined bright colored picture. Zhongwei City lies on the west bank of the Yellow River, adjacent to Gansu and Inner Mongolia provinces. It is abundant in natural resources just as the saying goes : "Ningxia is the richest region along the Yellow River, of which Zhongwei is top". At the Golden Sand Island we visited the Lavender Garden. That was a beautiful scenic spot. Though it was already off season, the lavender flowers were still blooming all over the area. Standing in between the flowers we were like in a sea of light purple, smelling the fascinating fragrance from a distance. It was truly “the Provence of China”, filled with the atmosphere of romance and passion. 

Sep 10.  We arrived at the Tonghu Grassland, Tengger Desert right at the border between Ningxia and Inner Mongolia. Here we witnessed the lake, the grassland, the desert and the oasis all in one place. Tonghu Grassland, the oasis in the center of the Tengger, is called the Eden Garden of the desert. Though considered Grassland, we did not see any magnificent sign of "Cattle appear in sight when the grass stoops in the wind".  

Getting through the entrance, we took electric cars to the center of the park where we saw some models of modern Mongolian Tent Houses and the horse ranch. Upon reaching the desert by another vehicle, we stopped by the Chiling Inn, shooting site of the movie "Chiling Inn", now a bar and inn which stood near the desert providing another kind of  appeal. 

From there we started to feel the desert, stepping on its fine golden sand. All of us found not easy to go up to the top of the sand dune where one tended to stumble when his foot got mired in the soft sand. At the top of the dune, we commanded a good view of the vast sandhill, the small lake in the middle and herds of camels roaming around. At this junction in the presence of the wonderful scene, our friend Hua Nhu Ninh could not stop reciting the letter written by Liling, the general in Han Dynasty who surrendered to the Huns, in reply to Suwu, an envoy of the Han Dynasty who was detained by the Huns but stood firm in his loyalty to the Emperor. Ninh uttered :

"In this cool Autumn month when grass here beyond the Great Wall started to whither, I could hardly sleep well, listening to the horns of the Huns hooting together, the horses neighed sadly..."

Returning to Chiling Inn, we removed our shoes to get rid of the sand inside. Some took the challenge of passing on the bridge of suspended swing boards just to invite the others' roaring laughter in watching their funny gestures. 

After lunch, the group proceeded to Gaomiao, or High Temple. Gaomiao was built 600 years ago during the Ming Dynasty. Due to damages by earthquakes, it had been rebuilt a few times to the present look. At its gate is Bao'anshi, or Protection Temple, with Kuixinglou, or Stargazing Tower over it. We walked up 15 steps from the Mi’le Pavilion to the Great Hall, with 2 Taoist Temples on its sides. Further up stood the Heavenly Gate while beneath was Hell Palace which displayed the legendary 18 level hell presenting thrilling scenes of punishments in hell, for teaching people to maintain good behaviors and conducts to avoid being sent to hell after death. Gaomiao, the only temple that accommodates Confucianism, Buddhism and Taoism under one roof, is a group of temples of unique yet magnificent design. 

Our journey went on with visiting Sapotou, or Sand Hill Top at the Yellow River Canyon, where we saw the talked about sheepskin raft. The raft is made by sewing whole piece of sheepskin to form a balloon, inflating it and joining 9 to 12 balloons together. This had been an important means of transport for 1500 years. Sapotou is located at the south east of the Tengger Desert facing the Yellow River, 1500m above sea level, with desert, river, mountain and oasis in one place. Here we saw the largest sand-sliding field in China and the number one cable cars on the Yellow River. We took the escalator up to the sand hilltop where we overlooked the quiet Yellow River---the Mother River of the Chinese people, and the vast, vast desert. We took pictures in front of the statue of Wangwei, the great poet of the Tang Dynasty. We read his famous verses inscribed on the monument :

"Straight ascends the single beacon on the desert,

Round is the setting sun over the long river",

while looking at the tourist crowd. The mood and concept of the poet in the verses contradicting the present scene deserved a rueful sigh.  

We rode in cable cars down to the ground, watching the young joining the thrill in walking down the sand hill slope, sand-sliding and cableway sliding that were really breathtaking. 

On Sep 11, we arrived at Xixia 108 Stupas on the bank of Yellow River Qingtong Gorge. No data in black and white could be retrieved as to the time these 108 Stupas were built. Some said the cluster was built to commemorate the set off of expedition by General Mu Guiying, the legendary heroine who led the battle against Xixia during the North Song period. During the repairs of the Qingtong Gorge Reservoir in 1958, relics including pictures of Buddha and sutras bearing Xixia characters were unearthed, subsequently indicative of the cluster being a legacy of Xixia. Xixia was a kingdom of the Tangut (Dangxiang) race from 10381227 during the Five Kingdoms period.

The 108 Stupas cluster is composed of 12 levels with a total height of 31.8m and a width of 59m, in the shape of an equilateral triangle. From top down, each of the 12 levels has respectively 1 33557 9 11 1315 17 19 totaling 108 Stupas. The highest one is larger, others are smaller. In 1968 the 108 Stupas was named a nationwide Major Relic Protection Unit. Standing on the top level, we had a bird's eye view of Qingtong Gorge with the Yellow River running between mountains, presenting a marvelous scene. The site is said to be the sanctuary of migrant birds that came in the tens of thousands from the south every spring to lay eggs and hatch. 

At noon we arrived at Yinchuan City, the provincial capital of Ningxia to visit the China Muslim Cultural Garden. The main gate was designed based on India's Taj Mahal as seen from a distance. After lunch, in the Muslim Museum we got an account of the history and culture of the Chinese Muslim, familiarizing with Muslim figures in Chinese history such as Zhenghe(1371-1433), the eunuch admiral in Ming Dystasty who led an armada exploring the South China Sea area, Hai Rui (1514-1587), the famous Ming Prime Minister, Chang Yuchun (1330~1369), the marshal who contributed to establishing the Ming Dynasty, Bai Congxi (1893-1966) the Nationalist general... We moved on to the magnificent golden top Muslim Grand Ritual Hall gracefully reflected in the pool in front. The Hall combining the classic structure of Islam and the ornamental design of Chinese Muslim can accommodate up to 3,000 for worshipping rites. The exterior wall is made of white marble with gold color roof presenting a very noble and sacred look. We followed the rules by removing our shoes, ladies having their hairs covered, before entering. Whilst inside, we sat on the carpet and listened to the narrator explaining on the structure and history of the Hall, and serving prayers. The walls of the Hall is decorated with ceramic tiles of Islamic color totems, the obverse is designed with gold totems. The whole building is lavish and beautiful without losing its solemnity and stateliness. 

After lunch, our next stop was Shuidonggou Site, situated at Linhe in Lingwu City at the foot of the Ming Great Wall. Around the period of 1920~1923, Belgian priest Shouter and some French biologists discovered some animal skulls and stone wares in the Site, unveiling the fabrication site of the stone wares of the Old Stone Age in China (from 2.5 million years up to 10,000 years ago). After many excavations, they found lots of stone wares belonging to the New Stone Age which was subsequently indicative that stone wares of both the Old and the New Stone Ages must have been buried down here. In the years between 1963 and 1980, Chinese scientists conducted a series of systematic excavations. Unearthing of thousands of relics which included animal fossils, further ascertained the special position of Shuidonggou Site in the Old and New Stone Ages of China, in witness of the cultural interface history of East and West. 

The Shuidonggou Site Museum is the only place in the west of China exhibiting the Old Stone Age features, where quite a numbers of home and foreign scholars and specialists visited and researched. At the exhibition hall of the Museum's basement we viewed the special illusionary video, sound and light presentation showing the lives of the ancient Stone Age people as if we were led back to the old, old days through the time machine. We also felt the shaking and the tremor of earthquake as well as landslide and flash flood just like real.  

The Shuidonggou Village presented the scene of livelihood of the ancient people. Shuidonggou Site is an important cultural relic of China and is named the "Cradle of Prehistoric Archaeology of China". It is also a geological park, and a known tourist spot due to its natural scenery. Here we had a view of the Ming portion of the Great Wall of China. A short cruise on the Red Hill Lake allowed us to appreciate the marvelous image of the ruins of the Great Wall being reflected in the water, filling us with great delight. 

From there we took camel-drawn carriage as well as donkey cart rides to reach deep into the valley to visit the Troops Hidden Cave. That Cave served as the barrack where troops hid during battles in Ming Dynasty to counter attack intruders. It was seen as a place of maze winding through the cliffs. Through the narrow paths we passed by the then military office, meeting room, arena, food storage, kitchen... The Cave was well ventilated exhibiting the good wisdom of our forefathers.  

Likewise we could imagine what a hard condition the soldiers were in during those days. The Troops Hidden Cave was a wonder created by Nature. The Cave, the Beacon Tunnel and the Great Wall, together constituted a complete military defense system.  

On Sep 12, we set off for the Sand Lake at the south west of Pingluo County. Here we had a scene combining the golden sand, the blue lake and the wetland. After the entrance, we had a short cruise through crumps of reeds to land on the South Pier. Walking through the winding wooden bridge, we reached the sand dune surrounded by water, where we visited the Wetland Museum. The Museum had an introduction of knowledge of wetlands, biological organisms and their culture, with illustrative pictures. After exiting there, we went out to the dune where camels were resting on the sand, some being herded around.  

Looking at the blue lake beside the sand and the cramps of reeds, we captured a beautiful moving scenery of Nature, realizing the place deserved its reputation of "The Pearl of the Frontier". Thereafter, we had for lunch "silver carp head stew", the local delicacy which was truly sumptuous and yummy. 

After filling our stomach, we moved on to Mount Helan between Ningxia and Inner Mongolia. With Tengger on the west and the Ningxia plain on the east, the Helan divided the area geographically and climatically. Looking at the rugged Rocky Mountain, on our mind was the heroic verses of General Yuefei of South Song period (around 1140 AD). He chanted :

"On chariot I'll advance,

To ruins I'll crush Mount Helan!"

The patriotic hero did not fulfill his aspiration. Yet if he would have been aware posthumously today that Mt. Helen was no longer an invincible bulwark, that it had been integrated into the domain of his motherland, how would he feel?  

We came here to watch the Rock Engraving along the cliffs. After visiting the Mt Helan Rock Engraving Museum where we learnt about the history of development of Rock Engraving in China as well as in other countries, we walked along the path to the east slope passes of the Mountain to inspect on the spot the rock engravings. These Engraving artworks were done mainly during the Spring Autumn Period (770470 BC ) of China, by ethnic groups  from the north such as Xirong, Huns, Xianbei, Turks...in simple and rough strokes by engraving or grinding on the rock. The artwork images depicted hunting, herding, warfare, dancing and offering, including animals and signs. Red marks had been placed on the image spots for the benefit of tourists to locate easily. We were all touched by the wisdom and the talent of the ancient people, leaving behind this legacy of immortal cultural artworks in the rocks. 

Coming down from Mt. Helan, we arrived at the city proper of Yinchuan to see the Gouqi Plantation. Ningxia is the country of Gouqi, or wolfberry, which is not strange to us overseas ethnic Chinese. This fruit could be picked at random by tourists to promote tourism business. Tasting fresh Gouqi right from the plant was our first experience. All of us agreed that the fresh fruit tasted much better than the dried one for our soup at home. After the curator explained to us that the fresh Gouqi would only last for 1 day, everybody rushed to buy the packed ones for bringing home at the sales center.  

The 1st part of the Tour of Love ended here. Some Tho Nhon Alumni bid farewell to those staying behind for the 2nd part on Sep 13 and returned home.

 

TOUR OF LOVE - China 2016 (2)

 

Mid Autumn Festival In Bodhisattva's Arms

 

Sep 13. Tho Nhon Alumni of 30 or more joining the 2016 Tour of Love - China (2) set off from Yinchuan, Gansu on 1 bus heading east for Shanxi Province crossing north Shaanxi.

 

On the highway we noticed from far quite a number of Yaodong, cave dwelling houses built by cutting into the mountain. Cave dwelling is common for the inhabitants in the loess plateau areas. The caves were built based on the residential style of the Chinese Han race by cutting in the mountain small caves and plaster the surface with clay. The loess soil on the plateau is sticky but hard allowing a strong frame structure for the dwelling houses to prevent caving in. The houses are usually cool in summer yet warm in winter. However following the evolution of time, many cave houses had been abandoned.

 

After the long travel, by twilight we arrived the old town of Pingyao at the south of Shanxi Province.

 

Sep 14. After breakfast, following our tour guide we walked past the old town proper to the gate tower of the town wall. With a history of 27 centuries, Pingyao is the best intact and well preserved among 4 oldest town of China. In 1978, it was declared a World Cultural Heritage. The 12m high brick wall, strong in structure, with streets, town hall, buildings, shops and houses, all remaining as they were in the Ming Dynasty, is practically an enormous museum.

 

Shanxi alias "Jin" as in the olden days, is traced back to the State of Jin during the Spring and Autumn Period (770~748 BC). During the Qing Dynasty, the trading business here was flourishing and Jin traders then were seen everywhere in China. Thus Pingyao became a financial hub in the country with more than 20 financial houses (similar to banks today) established here, regarded as the then "Wall Street" of China.

 

Before lunch, we roamed the business area of Pingyao. Aside from shops selling the local delicacies, we noticed shops selling Chinese rice vinegar. Many jars, big and small in size, were stacked up in each shop. The jars on one side contained rice wine, while rice vinegar on the other. Both products are specialties of Shanxi. According to our tour guide, the Shanxi people liked vinegar mainly due to their love of noodle and wheat flour based food for meal. The vinegar as a condiment is best to neutralize the taste of alkaline used in making noodle.

 

After lunch, we visited to original Rishengchang Financial House to have a view of its operation in the old time.

 

In the afternoon we moved on to the Mansion of the Qiaos. The mansion was the family compound of Qiao Zhiyong, the noted Jin merchant, during the reign of Qianlong,17351799), Qing Dynasty. Built in 1756, the whole compound has 2 main blocks consisting of 6 courts comprising 20 yards, 313 rooms, with a total building area of 4,175m2. Itis bounded by streets on 3 sides, surrounded by a 10m high fence of green glazed tiles. With the front entrance that looks like a Wall Gate, the Mansion is but a traditional Han style old residence of common people.

 

Courtyards are filled with magnificent carvings depicting all the auspices and good wishes commonly seen in a Han merchant's residence. On the wall hangs rigorous family precepts which include rules of fair treatment to employees in reward and punishment. The building has been open to public since 1986 and had been the shooting site of movies and TV series such as "The Red Lantern Was Hung High" and "The Qiaos' Mansion".

 

From the Mansion we proceeded to Jinci, the Jin Ancestral Temple to the south west of Taiyuan City. The temple was originally built in North Wei Period around 1600 years ago to honor Suyu, son of Wuwang, the powerful king of Zhou Dynasty (1046~1043 BC). Around 636 AD, Emperor Li Shimin of the Tang Dynasty wrote an inscription for the Temple engraved on a stele that remains intact. Though more than 1,000 years had passed, we could still read by touching the engraving on the stele that had turned black. 

 

Another relic is the Holy Mother Hall built thereafter. The surrounding here presented lofty buildings, gardens with running water beneath a footbridge, with pavilions and terraces around. What a scenic landscape complex it was that kept us enthralled. We took pictures at the 3 noted spots : Never Age Spring, Maidservants Sculpture and the Zhou Cypress. Wherein the last was an old cypress tree the age of which could be traced back to the Zhou Dynasty more than 3,000 years ago. The giant cypress had been inclining to south west at 40 degree, with its branches and leaves leaning on the wall. Through centuries the tree had no risk of falling. In fact, it still appeared lush and lively, providing shade to the area. In the exhibition hall commemorating the writer cum medical practitioner Fu Qingshan of early Qing Dynasty some 400 years ago, we viewed the display of his works in painting and calligraphy.

 

From Jinci our group arrived at the City of Taiyuan, capital of Shanxi Province, in the evening.

 

Sep 15. We left Taiyuan in the morning for a 200km bus ride heading northeast to arrive at Mount Wutai at noon. Mt. Wutai is placed first in the 4 famous Buddhist Sacred Mountains in China. It is also one of the world's 5 Buddhist Sacred Lands, the ritual place worshipping or Bodhimanda of Manjushri. In China, Wutai is among the top 10 mountains, named World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO.

 

Mt. Wutai, 3,000m above sea level, is composed of 5 terrace peaks, thus named Wutai. Currently host to 47 temples and monasteries, it had been the worshipping place for imperials in olden days. The cool climate here gained it another name as Qingliangshan, or "Cool Mountain". The grand white pagoda, which can be seen from far, is its landmark.

 

We climbed up 108 steps to reach the Lamas' Palace, or Pusading (Bodhisattva Peak). Buddha said "Man has 108 types of vexation in life". Reaching here, we have practically stamped on all the vexations placing them under our feet, thus nothing more could bother us. Pusading hosts the largest Lamas' monastery on Mt.Wutai, with its magnificent structure and dazzling look.

 

Passing through the Heavenly Hall, we came to the front court, which was filled with big old trees as well as steles, providing a serene yet elegant scenic place. Obverse was the Grand Hall, with the Manjushri Hall on the right where there were enshrined 3 bronze statues of Bodhisattvas, with Manjushri on the middle, Guanyin (Goddess of Mercy) on the left and Puxian (Lord of Truth ) on the right.

 

We came across a giant pot made in bronze, which was dated back to the Ming Dynasty period said to be used for cooking congee for the Lamas. Then one day when a small lama got in there to clean the giant pot, he was almost unable to get out due to the depth of the pot. In the end the giant pot was not in use for cooking anymore. Pusading was brought to fame,  as a result of the visits by Emperors of a few Dynasties. Emperor Kangxi, the great monarch during the early years of the Qing Dynasty, came here and wrote "Wutai Sacred Paradise" which was then inscribed on a stone tablet. This triggered the legend of Emperor Sunzi, father of Emperor Kangxi, came and became a monk on Mt. Wutai, as in the storybooks of Jinyong. Standing on Pusading, we had a panoramic view of Mt. Wutai. Walking down the 108 steps was as fatiguing as ascending, and our trip to Mt . Wutai thus came to an end.

 

Back to our hotel, we enjoyed a delicious vegetarian dinner. The day happened to be the Mid-Autumn Moon Festival and so we were served the local Moon Cakes as dessert. After dinner, we walked around outside the hotel to watch the moon, which was usually big and bright on the Mid-Autumn Night, but it was even bigger and brighter than usual then and there. Many of us were able to take good shots of the moon. Just as said Zu, our tour guide, "Our tour came with Love. That's why we are lucky enough to spend the meaningful night with the Moon, in the blessing arms of Manjushri".

 

Sep 16. We headed north in the direction of Datong, a big city next to Taiyuan in the Province of Shanxi. Along the way we visited the Wooden Pagoda at Ying County, which is also called Sakya Pagoda of Buddha Palace Temple. It is the oldest and tallest wooden pagoda in the world. There is no data showing the time it was built, but its structure style and relevant relics were traced to the time of Liao (907~1125 AD). 65m in height, it has 5 levels and is totally made of wood. There are images of Buddha in all levels. On the eave of the 5th level we saw as hung the inscription tablet " Superlative Craftsmanship" by Emperor Zudi of Ming Dynasty, while on the 4th level was "World Wonder" by Emperor Wuzong. Two Buddha's Tooth Sariras were enshrined in the Pagoda.

 

In the afternoon, we arrived at the site of the Hanging Temple at Hunyuan County, Datong. Originally built in the North Wei period around 1700 years ago, the temple combines Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism in one place. The existing structure was rebuilt during the time of Ming and Qing Dynasties. The temple lies entirely on a cliff of Mt. Cuifeng, supported by 27 wood beams built into the cliff. The entire structure is like hanging in the air, thus named the Hanging Temple. Though totally made of wood, but the structure is so strong that the temple did not collapse after such a long period of time. It was really so amazing even though we were not able to enter the temple, as there were crowds of local tourists lining up for their chance to see the interior of the temple, due to long holidays. The management of the tourism agency limited the number of people entering in a given time. We could not help but just made do with photo taking from a distance for our remembrance.

 

Thereafter, we moved on to the Yungang Grotto Caves. The Grotto Caves, a large group of caves built almost the same time in North Wei period under the supervision of the Imperials, the first in the history of China, by cutting into the mountain, stretching 1km. There are 51 caves here with 1,100 Buddha statues and 51,000 statuettes, the tallest at 7m in height while the smallest at 2mm, all being cut out from rock. The tallest cave measures 20m. In one of the caves we saw big and small statuettes more than 10,000 in number carved out on the walls surrounding a 3m statue in the center. That is called the Cave of Ten Thousand Buddha Statues. Many statues had been damaged as a result of corrosion due to long time. Yet as a whole they appeared well preserved. Some statues even looked kindly with smiling faces. Photo taking inside the cave was prohibited but some of us took stolen shots of the statues. In 2011 Yungang Grottoes was officially named a World Cultural Heritage.

 

Sep 17. Our flight from Datong to Shanghai was delayed for 2 hours and we arrived Pudong Airport only in late afternoon. After dinner, we roamed East Nanjing Road Promenade, the favorite shopping area of tourists.

 

Sep 18. We left Shanghai for the Zhoushan Archipelago in Zhejiang Province. We went passed the City of Ningbo crossing the Bay of Hangzhou via the Hangzhouwan Grand Bridge. The Bridge is 36km long, the 2nd longest bay crossing bridge in China and the 3rd in the world. Completely designed and built by Chinese engineers, it helps shorten the land transfer time by 4 hours and distance by 120km. The Bridge was delicately designed to exhibit aesthetics, including the multicolor fences that look like rainbows suspended on its both sides, adding beauty and attraction.

 

Arriving Zhoushan past noon, after lunch we took the ferry for Putuoshan. There was news about the approaching typhoon, which meant we should be back before dusk as the ferry service would be suspended in the evening. Putuoshan is not a mountain, but an island located on the East China Sea . Zhizulin, or  Purple Bamboo Woods on the island is the Bodhimanda of Guanyin, or Avalokiteśvara, the Goddess of Mercy and Compassion. It is one of the four Buddhist Sacred Lands in China. Upon landing, we visited Puji Temple, formerly the site of Unwilling To Go Guanyin  Nunnery. The name of the Nunnery has a legend. It was said that during the Tang Dynasty some 1,100 years ago, a monk from Japan named Huie came to Mt. Wutai to study Buddhism. Attracted by the merciful and noble look of the statue of Guanyin, the monk made a request to invite Guanyin by carrying the statue back to Japan for worshipping to give blessing to the local people. On the way back home, he encountered inclement weather. His trip was subsequently abolished after several tries. Sensing that the Bodhisattva did not consent to leave, he decided to go ashore to inhabit at Zhoushan with the fishermen and built a small nunnery for Guanyin which he named Unwilling To Go Guanyin Nunnery, that being the predecessor of Puji Temple. There were purple color bamboos around the place, hence the name of Zhizulin, or Purple Bamboo Woods.

 

On the way walking around 20 minutes up to the site of the Statue of South Sea Guanyin, we saw some pious worshippers reached there by kneeling and kowtowing, said to redeem their vows. Zhizulin, a scenic place facing the sea with the mountain at its back, the sound of the waves consonant with the prayer chants, truly deserves the name of "Kingdom of Buddhism at Sea".

 

The bronze cast statue of Guanyin is 18m high standing on 3 level platforms of 10m, with the Eternal Wheel of Live on her left hand and the Abhaya Mudra, or hand symbol of fearlessness on the right. The look of the statue exudes eminence and benevolence. From the level the statue stands, we had a good view of the rugged mountain and the lush vegetation, surrounded by the blue water of the sea. The verses by Bai Juyi, the great poet of Tang Dynasty, in "Song of Eternal Love" crossed our mind:

"Suddenly it was learnt at mid-sea the fairy mountain,

Appeared then disappeared in an instant."

Would this be for real?

 

We were ferried back to Zhoushan late afternoon.

 

Sep 19.  We headed back for Ningbo via the same way and had a sumptuous lunch of local delicacies. After lunch we walked to Tianyige, the oldest private library of China as well as the 3rd earliest family library in the world.

 

Tianyige, now centered on the culture of books collection, is a specialized Museum, having the research, preservation, management and display of books, social education and tourism under one roof. Current collection includes up to 30,000 old books, big volumes of calligraphy and painting works, stele prints and various delicate local handicrafts. Tianyige owed its good name to Fanqin, then a retired Defense Minister in Ming Dynasty who was tasked to build the library on a 26,000m2 lot. The library included his own "Dongming Caotang", a library of his own collection. The entire compound was designed in the style of a garden mansion, with the presence of books in every nook and corner.

 

From Tianyige Library Museum, we went back to Shanghai where the last leg of our 2016 Tour of Love came to a close.

 

 

 

 

   

 

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